Marco has been sailing this coast since he was nine. At five in the morning, he is already on the jetty, checking the wind with a wet finger.

We push off in the dark and watch the cliffs turn from blue to gold. Nobody talks much. There is coffee, warm bread and a thermos of something stronger.

The coast before the crowds

By the time we are back, the town is just waking up. You will carry that quiet with you for the rest of the day.

Slow is not a speed. It is a way of paying attention.